Thursday, May 18, 2023

Kalimpong Ultra Part 3- Neel Pahari Resort




 

 Kalimpong Ultra Part 3

"Oh yes ,  we spoke on phone "  Sunil Mukhia  was pleasant man in his mid-fifties . As we entered home stay , we were stunned by colours of flowers. The entries entrance and balconies of two storey house was laden by flower pots of different colours. Plants were  placed everywhere possible , horizontally and vertically . It was most beautiful welcome to any place.

   However Neel Pahari resort our homestay looked like forever work in progress .  In the basement the Mukhia family was running a school.  Some adding of floors and rooms as and when required was evident. Still some construction was going on. Why it was called Resort I don’t know .

 

      But my expectations were not high . Neel Pahari was built on a slope you can view a deep valley from one window and a tall hill from other. I was happy though room was very basic . Weather was pleasant  now . I didn't wait for hot water . Quickly took a shower and came to dining area . It was around 5.30.  Sunil asked Black Tea or with Milk . I remembered ginger Tea on  my EBC trek. Tea with milk was rarity  there.  Sunil loved this valley . He told me   Geography

“The road you travelled is silk route . It was trade route between india and Tibet thru Sikkim”

  “India annexed Sikkim and China annexed Tibet” , So no trade after that”. Some History too . 

“In clear weather you can so Dokhlam from here” . There was some bloody wrestling between Indian and Chinese soldiers  a year back in Dokhlan    He told me some war stories of the place too.

Though in Bengal  this region is not true Bengali . Its Geography , Demography is different . This Eastern Himalayan region is bordering  Bhutan , Sikkim and Chiana , Bagladesh are not far away .

  Dining hall was filling with runners  from Delhi , Haryana , Guwahati. Mostly they were in groups . Ex

Cloud cover above started rumbling  now .

The rain started and quickly turned into hailstorm. It was terrifying noisy affair .  “ What if it happens in race ?” It was scary thought .

In eastern part of India night come relatively early . So it was already dinnertime. Sunil’s family cooked simple but delicious food .

It was early to bed . But could not sleep because body clock has its own way. There was some anxiety building up. A fear of unknown.

I was staying alone in a secluded terrace room . Different thoughts crossed my mind I was afraid of unknown. It was unfamiliar way of going to sleep.

Sun rises very early here. Though I was fully awake, I didn't moved from bed till I got a feeling of sunrays entering from window glass.  I glanced at watch, it was 5.00 AM . “India should have two time zones” I spoke to myself .  I was craving for tea. There was no sign of home stay owners in dining area . “Still sleeping” I  guessed. So took the road searching tea stall .  One side of road is army ground . And behind that a forested hill. Later I came to know it is Damsang fort  part of Paiengaon forest . On other side of road beautiful homes were lined up on the slope . I noticed newspaper and Letter boxes at the gate. Military ground was getting filled up with army men for their daily exercise.  I climbed up to the ground walked on wet grass . Chatted with couple of soldiers. They were part of Sikkim regiment.  I remembered my search for tea when I saw tea setup for jawans on the ground.

Back on road I found one grocery shop cum restaurant. While waiting for tea tried to strike conversation with owner and few customers.  “From Mumbai just for running ?” Question was same . He might be wondering why this man past  military age is running . What is at stake ?  Black Tea was serves better in cold weather , I realised while sipping milked tea.  

Back in homestay, runners were gathered for tea at restaurant .Some new faces  from Goa , Kolkata , Gurgaon.

Their stories are very interesting

 Their runs , their plans , experiences ,travels . When you travel solo you are at advantage of making friends.

These all were from different places, different walks of life but common thing was passion for running .

  A group decided to trek nearby fort. I thought of joining them but I was in sleepers.

So after some time i started solo. Forest was dense and slope was steep. Scene below was very beautiful. Roofs of different colours on backdrop of mountain ranges made me remember my Everest base camp trek again.

After 200 meters of Steep climb  , found a flag of Army regiment waving on a tall pole . And some remains of old fort .

Delhi Guwahati group was already there. I joined them  After some chat we started our descent.

While coming down there was lot of knowing each other .

Dagar Sisters  Rita and Geeta always teasing each other , were more like friends then sisters . Pratibhu  Datta is writer of bestsellers. I was interested. "Send me titles, I will get it on amazon"  Pratibhu replied ."Dilip, It is in  Assamese". 

"Write it in  English then". Friendship was just 10 miniutes old . 

 "I will try Dilip , I promise" . Pratibhu kept that promise , But I am still waiting for his another promise . Assamese Tea .

  This auther and Maths Teacher  was more  cyclist than runner was scheduled for his first big ultra. I thought "I will more runne now on"

  Though downhill was steep and slippery  we covered it in no time listening stories of each other .

Military drill was over when we reached grounds at bottom of hills . Breakfast table with tea was laid for soldiers on the lawn .  we felt strong craving for Tea and Jawans were happy to offer us .

Morning gave us a lot than expected, a good hill Trek , and got  three good friends.

I dropped plan of route recce. Trek was enough exhaustive for body, so there was no point taking exhaustive route recce and get frightened by ascends and descends .

"I will see what to do when I actually reach there in race "I thought aloud. I think everyone in our homestay thought same way .

  Retired to room after breakfast . Rooms are boring in hills especially when you are traveling alone Those are cold . Dining rooms are warm , because of people , kitchen , food , and  fireplaces.

You can't sleep when you are going thru marathon jitters. though it is your n'th marathon. It is all same .

 And I think it is same for everyone. Because everyone was in dining hall when I entered well before decided time to go for BIB Collection .

 

Kalimpong Ultra Marathon part 2- Reaching There

So finally day has arrived . I reached Airport  for early flight and got some  pleasant surprises . My co travellers happens to be Mr Arun   Nayak and Pushpa Bhat . Both legendary runners. Arun  a pleasant  dentist   from south Mumbai was doing 90 k and Pushpa madam the veteran runner in her late 60s was scheduled to run 65 km. It was long flight to Bagdogra . Longer than international flights to gulf countries . I wondered about vastness of our great country .

      Bagdogra was as hot and humid as Mumbai. May be because of cloud cover. I was not expecting this . "I expected a bit cooler  weather." I protested     The wait for taxi took more than hour .  Roshni has arranged Taxi pooling  for out station runners . So Valerian  our driver came from Pedong for me and Ms Pushpa Bhat . Our taxi took us to green  forest of Sevok   after chaotic traffic of Siliguri.  The sight of greenery  changed mood of everybody . Sevok  is dense forest on plains . At some elephant crossing marking driver Valerian told us stories of wild elephants. Pushpa ji travelled this area previously as well. She has memories of famous doors region. Teesta river was on our right at start of the hilly regions. Steadily we kept climbing with great , fast Teesta in sight . Water was muddy may be because of rains on earlier day. Teesta has some dams there with one hydroelectric project .  Pushpa ji pointed me to Famous coronation bridge” It is door of doors region .” Traffic was heavy on  narrow road . Driver said this is important road connecting Sikkim to Siliguri. In these difficult hills  Railways is building new lines thru tall viaducts over valleys and long tunnels thru hills . Really commendable job. We stopped for a Tea on banks of Teesta . Exactly below under construction Railway Viaduct ( Bridge) .  The Nepali couple owner of Tea joint were happy to talk with us . “ You have come from Mumbai just for running ? “ He was puzzled.

 We left Gangtok road , crossed Teesta bridge  and kept ascending to  Kalimpong region  . Traffic was thin but road was quite narrow.

Air was getting cooler now . Region is extremely beautiful. With hills and valleys on either side . Beautiful homes with colours full tin roofs.

I remembered Panchgani when we crossed groups of  cute students in  stylish uniform


s crossing road. 

Kalimpong Region is beautiful but that is not thing with town we  found . Very narrow roads. Unruly traffic , rampant haphazard construction. Unpainted houses  doesn’t make same impression that of nature .

" How much more time " Pushpa ji asked velorian . "Madam just few kilometres" he replied the same answer a dozen times .

Journey was long , but I was enjoying it . The clouds were turning black , and sound was telling that something is brewing up there . " It must be running up in Pedong  " Valerian remarked . I was curious again

"Is pendong is at  further up,"

 Yes sir we will be uphill for next 10/12 km . "Is there snow fall in winters here? " No sir but it shows in Lava.  You will be passing thru Lava in your marathon " Valerian was happy to answer .

 "Just 2 km to go " Valerian replied to teasing or annoyed Pushpa ji .

   But within a minute  Valerian stopped suddenly, smiled mischievously   and announced " . We are here "

Oh I was enjoying .  I wanted to just go own and  keep breathing serene nature . But Ok we are here finally .On left side  up there was huge army ground and other establishment and on  down left side  rows of houses in different colours and shapes .

Is it our home stay ?

Yes . A smiling   man  of Gorkha  descent  emerged from somewhere and greeted Valerian .

He introduced himself as Sunil Mukhia ..

Monday, May 15, 2023

What is Kalimpong - A very late post


 

 What is Kalimpong ?

I never heard name Kalimpong in my life. Few months back Coach Satish Gujaran sir posted in our group that he is planning a comrades training run there. He did recce   there and posted pics of hilly roads. Later Roshni Rai a veteran comrades runner and founder of Run with Roshni foundation declared an Ultra marathon there.

Then I checked where exactly this place is. Challenge was reaching there so I didn't think much about it. I am not doing comrades this year there so I didn't need any training run. Summer was already in so marathon season was already over.

Since last one year running was important part of my life.  Some event was always round the corner . I realised that  there was nothing to do as Berlin marathon was 6 months away   My next race is on  6 months away . The vacuum started troubling me .  So Kalimpong ultra kept tempting . Moreover my Guru Satish Gujaran and dear friend Becky pde were brand ambassadors. I asked few of my buddies . Some   were preparing for comrades here and for others Kalimpong was  too far almost on other side of the country . Going there was involved lot of time . I registered but still was not yet ready to go .Few weeks before  Satish sir asked me how much you are doing at Pedong ?

I guessed he is talking about Kalimpong. He gave me training plan for two weeks.  Now I must do it . I booked tickets. Spoken with home stay owner and did the booking. I joined WhatsApp group made by  organiser Roshni Rai . It was most buzzing group  till event date. Runners from all over India. All great achievers. Everyone was excited about hills of  Kalimpong valley in  lower  Himalayan ranges . I was curious about elevation challenge. Since this was first edition no data was available.  With whatever data I could collect, i made an rough  elevation map in my mind . Then feed it in Excel  as a habit . The broader plan broken into 6  parts . Incline of 5 km.  Flat ( it was not flat  actually  but steep Rolling )of 15 km . Decline of 12.5 km  and  back . Then the plan further broken into every kilometres.

All set now .

So waiting for day of departure

Saturday, June 13, 2020

53@53



When comrades Marathon was called off heart break was ju st a formality . It was broken piece by piece since corona virus started spreading  its vicious empire .  We three Me , Dr Milind Dhale and Bindesh Singh really sweated hard to qualify and then training .

  We all  had   decided to run  a really long distance on scheduled date 14th June to compensate for our missed comrades .   Sometime in May we got a mail from   CMA ( Comrades Marathon Associations ) that they have orgnised a virtual run on 14th June . We three  happily said ok that we will register . But when i tried to  register they were asking  charges from all Overseas runners . Though charges were not huge, It was like rubbing salt on a wound as we already lost huge money of around 1,50,000 and more on travel, stay and registration.

   Later we decided to hell with virtual  comrades certificate and planned to run our own managed Comrade run. Run which was planned on 14 th shifted to 12th June my birthday  to make it a celebration of different kind . My  partners in crime  immediately agreed to make it happen.
     
  I  was already running short distances  but not any long run. We three did one 15 k and had accidental  Tadi( booze of palms like tree ) party on beautiful Kalyan river side. We never knew such place exists in Kalyan .while coming back we found one injury is troubling our rising star Bindesh..  Me and Dr Milind did one Titwala run in scorching heat . We were both exhausted  and started to have second thoughts about planned run . Heat was so high that i weighed three kg less post run due to hydration loss . It was frightening to see blood in urine , Consulted Dr Milind , He too experienced in last winter  . Searched in running websites and found it is not that uncommon .   

     Luckily  weather turned in our favour after Cyclone Nisarga  and we were hopeful again .
 Sachin  Sir  agreed to run some distance and  Dr Shyam  wanted to volunteer. I wanted him to run some distance as 12th june is his birthday as well.  Durgesh bhai was ready with big smile  .Pankaj was happy to give us support . Bindesh spoke with Dheeraj and he too was happy to give us water support in car .
      But weather was again warm a week before run. I was looking for weather forecast everyday . every  weather website said  rains will start from 11th June.  We had few droplets on 11th but heat and humidity was increasing . and there was no sign of rains .
 But when you speak aloud about doing  something then it becomes your commitment.  I spoke with three of my inspirations Ashish Kasodekar , Satish Gujran sir and Becky Pde . They encouraged me such a way that there was no doubt in my mind about completing 53 km to mark my 53rd Birthday . So stage was set . I woke up at two .Actually hardly slept.   Even You run your hundredth  event you can't sleep previous night . Checked out of window road was dry, My heart sunk but there was no turning back .
Reached Vasant valley our starting point  at 2.50 AM . Did some  light warm  up . Got a call from  Dr Shyam . he was coming for mobile water points along with Sachin .
 We started around 3.10 . it was good start with really nice pace  . Route was fixed  and informed to our support team  and there was no impromptu  change as support team may get confused .   Sachin and Dr Shyam helped us throughout first loop . They were joined by Dr  Hiraman.  After 10  km Bindesh's injury started giving trouble . We slowed down but there was so much pain so he decided to take a small break . Despite of injury he tried to there with me  for small runs . it was really invaluable support . In the night hours Dr Shyam Sir's BMW was blaring inspirational songs in full volume to keep our moral high.
   Dheeraj  was  with another  mobile support after 6.00 AM
   Dr Milind decided to  stop  after first loop as he has to travel  to  Navi Mumbai . Then Seema ran with me for few kms then Arwind Katkar sir supported  with 5 more km .  Meanwhile Pankaj joined Dheeraj in his car . A thing about Pankaj is he always has some surprise element , He brought a bottle of home made energy drink. It was so refreshing to see my friends having different ideas to support my run .
      As Katkar sir left I was running alone.  Dheeraj  noted this , handed over his car keys to Pankaj and  started running with me . He ran entire second loop intermittently as he was totally out of practice and running just to support me.  . If he was not there it was very difficult run as sun was already up and humidity was too high and roads were full of traffic .
    My   non runner friend Kedar was third mobile support for water and food . He has different ideas to encourage He started facebook live with wonderful  commentary.   Pankaj and Kedar helped me a lot as they had to wait long as I was running slow in return of 2nd loop. .As water I poured on my head   to beat heat soaked my socks . Socks got wrinkled and it was giving lot of pain while I was running.  I  had no stomach to remove shores and wear again .
 Durgesh bhai took some good snaps . Pankaj too did  Facebook Live .  A small personal  run turned into a micro event.    Last 5 km was torture . I was walking a lot . thanks to Dheeraj once again for that support .
    it was hero like welcome on last 1 km . group of dozen friends clapping  while I was running slowly . Prabhakar  Chande sir paced me by  his scooter  in last 1 km . My friends Arun Sapkale , Prof Namdeo , Shekhar  Nitavane ,  Kedar , Pankaj, Bindesh , Dhiraj , Durgesh  were all cheering up.
      I was exhausted and socks were acting like thorns . I threw off my shoes , and walked few steps . Chandekar sir tried to give me some necessary stretching , But I was too tired .
We cut a nice birthday cake brought by Prabhakar sir . I missed my friend supported me in early part has to leave for office as it was working day .
 I believe running 53  km was bit challenging. but supporting such run is more challenging , because you have to wait long for a single  slow runner  .And keep waiting for 6.45 hours is not easy thing .
 I dedicate this run to all my friends , Trainers and Mentors


 .

another page from lock down

वेळ सत्कारणी लावायचा कंटाळा आलाय
सकाळी उठून व्यायाम करायचा कंटाळा आलाय
 नवीन  कायतरी शिकायचं बास झालं आता
ऑनलाईन शिकवण्या खूप झाल्या आता
 पंखे तरी किती वेळा पुसायचे
आणि कपाट किती वेळा लावायची
 क्लासिक सिनेमे शोधायचे
कळत नसलं  तरी बघायचे.
 काय  वाचायची  ती पुस्तकं
तेच ते शहाणपण आणि ज्ञान फुकाच
 बघून झाले सगळे फोटो जुने पुराणे
फेसबुक पण आता  झाले सूने सूने.
किती करायचं  कौतुक मोकळ्या झालेल्या हवेचं
 जीव कोंडलाय इकडे  कारण कुठच नाही जायचं
नको तो टी व्ही , नको त्या बातम्या , चर्चा आणि उपेक्षा
 तिथे दिसतात यातना आणि  विरतात सगळ्या अपेक्षा
    म्हणालं होत कुणीतरी आशेवरती जग चालतं
  जग तर थांबलय आता , मग आशेच काय करायचं  ?
........ दिलीप

a page from lock down diary

दैनंदिनी तले एक पान 
कुठ तरी नवीन रस्त्यांनी प्रवासाला निघालेले असावं आणि एखादा छान सा  घाट लागावा रस्त्यात . खोल दरीमधून पाण्याचा आवाज ही येत असतो . . कधी गाडी आपण थांबवितो . कधी ठरवितो पुढच्या वेळेस नक्की थांबुया इथे.  थांबलो तरी लगेच आठविते  अमुक वेळेला पोचायचं आहे रे.
 पण कधी कधी कामाचं विचार चक्र येवढं व्यस्त ठेवत की  घाट आधी गाडीला जाणवतो आणि म्हणून नंतर आपणास .  एका सुंदर अनुभवाला आपण बगल देऊन गेलोय हे आपणास कळत सुद्धा नाही .
 अगदी सकाळी चालायला जायचं उदाहरण घ्या . अगदी शहरात सुद्धा निसर्गाचे आविष्कार पुसटसे जाणवतात .
नवीनच आलेला एखादा पक्षी,  पावसाळ्यात  फुललेलं गवतफुल , आचानक पिवळ्या फुलांनी डवरलेली कडेची झाडं  दिसतात. पण  ऑफिस पकडायच असतं थांबून आस्वाद नाही घेता येत .
         आता या महामारी च्या भीती मुळे आयुष्य थोडंसं थबकलय. ठरवून ही घेता नसता आला असा निवांतपणा मिळालाय.  आताशा  आजूबाजूला असणाऱ्या पण माहित नसणाऱ्या बऱ्याच गोष्टी दिसतायत. माझ्या सोसायटीच्या आवारात शेवग्यायच झाड आहे मला मागच्या आठवड्यात कळलं. आणि काल मागच्या रिकाम्या जागे मध्ये दोन भली मोठी आंब्याची झाड ही दिसली.  आज  भिंतीलगत  पाच मिनिट उभा राहून  अंदाज घेत होतो कैऱ्या कशा काढता येतील. पण  झाडावरून पडण्याच्या भितीपेक्षा शेजारी काय म्हणतील या विचारांनी तिथून निघालो .  पण लहानपणी आख्खा आंब्याचा  मौसम  झाडावर  चढून कैऱ्या चोरण्यात जायचा याची आठवण मात्र मनाला सुखावून गेली .  आमच्या सोसायटीत फक्त एक पांढर कबुतर आहे . कधीतरी फेऱ्या मारताना मला ते विशिष्ट ठिकाणीच दिसत. त्यांची पण हद्द ठरली असावी बहुधा. नाहीतरी सगळी कबुतर सारखीच दिसतात .. हे पांढर होत म्हणून लक्ष्यात राहिलं. आज लक्ष्यात राहिलेली अजून एक गोष्ट म्हणजे आडवा गेलेला भाला मोठा साप. 15 फूट तरी असावा. धामण असावी बहुधा नाहीतर अजगर. थांबून तो  दगडात दिसेनासा होईपर्यंत पाहिलं .किती सुंदर असतो साप. भीती वाटते खरी  पण म्हणून त्याचं  साैंदर्य  न्याहाळयाच आणि वाखाणण्याच  राहून जात.
     माझ्या  घराजवळ  एका मोकळ्या जागेत रोज एक दानशूर माणूस रोज कबुतरांना भरपूर धान्य टाकून जातो.   कबुतरांचा थवाच्या थवा तिथे येऊन  दाने टिपतो . पण चाहूल लागली की सगळेच्या सगळे उडून जातात.  पिसांचा नुसता सडा पडतो . पंखाच्या फडफडीचा  एकत्रित येणारा आवाज बऱ्याच दिग्दर्शकांनी त्यांच्या चित्रपटात वापरलाय . मला ते पक्षी उडताना बघून नेहमी परिंदा आठवितो नाना पाटेकर चा.  फेऱ्या घेताना मी जरा लांबून जातो. त्यांच्या  खाण्यात व्यत्यय नको असतो पण त्या बारीक  पिसा पासून ही दूर राहायचं असतं .
 आज ही असाच एक मोठा थवा बसलेला पाहिलं मी.
 एक कुत्रा धावत  थव्यामध्ये शिरला .पक्षांशी  खेळतोय अस वाटल मला सुरुवातीला. भुर्रकन सगळे पक्षी उडून गेले आणि कुत्रा मात्र तोंडामध्ये एक कबुतर घेऊन परत आला.  अच्छा ही शिकार होती तर . आता त्या ठिकानाकडे माझे लक्ष लागून राहिलं.  सगळी कबुतर इमारतीवर झाडावर बसून होती . खूप वेळ फिरकली नाहीत . कुत्रा ही तिथे  थोड्या अंतरावर बसून होता.  थोड्या वेळानी पुन्हा कबुतर खाली उतरली. दाणे टिपायला लागली. कुत्रा बसूनच होता.  पण कुणीतरी जवळून गेलं आणि पक्षी  पंखाचा मोठा आवाज करीत उडाली.  दोनदा तीनदा असे झाल्यावर  कुत्र्यान पुन्हा एकदा शिकार केली . मला वाटलं त्यांची स्मरणशक्ती थोडी कमी असावी .
 दुसरं असं जाणवल की   चाहूल लागली की बाहेरच्या बाजूचे पक्षी लवकर उडून जातात , नंतर  त्यांच्या बाजूचे . शेवटच्या पक्ष्यांना माहीत पडेपर्यंत काही क्षण निघून जातात. ते तिथेच गोंधळून उभे असतात. आणि शेवटी उडून जातात. त्यामुळे कुत्रे घुसले की त्यांना शिकार नक्की मिळते .
 एक गमतीदार विचार मनात येऊन गेला . आपला तो दानशूर माणूस खाऊ घालतो ते  कबुतरां साठी की कुत्र्यांना शिकार मिळावी म्हणून?

confinement

when I sit in my solitary window
staring  at deserted  road and piece of sky
   that is too often now.
as there is  nothing to do and nowhere to go 
   I dont bother to look at the watch or care about calender .
As hours ,days , weeks and months are blended into each other
       Though it is not jail , and I can easily break out .
still I feel lonely , unwanted and disconnect .

    Then i  think about few who spent   most of the life there in confinement.

  ,Gandhi  spent  years  in Yerwada , Tilak  in Mandaley.

Mandela in  Robbin island and Aung suu ki  in  her own house

 I wonder how they keep their hope alive
  and what they did millions to inspire .

     Didnt you see their best years were there in  confinement alone .

   Their fasts , their writings , their  isolation  there , won the wars and changed fortune
.
     certainly thru window of the powerful mind they had seen dreams  for their kind